Somewhere along the way I read about a survey of Indians in which Jodhpur was rated to be the most beautiful fort in their country. In a country, and a state, famous for its many forts—that is saying something.

Just in passing can I also say that the potential database for such a survey is enormous. One of the most noticeable changes in India in the 50 years since we lived there as children, is the increase in domestic tourists. Although many of those we encountered along the way were likely to be NRIs (Non-Resident Indians)—I reckon the number of non-Indian tourists was closer to 1-in-1000 than even 1-in-100. Yes, there’ll be a bit of a covidian hangover at work, but it is still a remarkable change. I like it.

But back to this Mehrangarh Fort…

Just look at it. Who could possibly be brave enough to disagree with this survey?

‘Breath-taking’ is an overused word but, at first sight, this was breath-taking. I gasped when I saw it. Perched atop an isolated rocky hill, it takes majestic command of all that it surveys.

We stayed in a haveli at its base. It had a roof-with-a-view, with the fort filling our vision, as we gathered for breakfast each morning. We even had a toilet-with-a-view!

However, once we did some serious local roaming, we realised that there was much more to Jodhpur than its fort.

Colour

Jodhpur is in Rajasthan, India’s largest state. It is an arid place, most of it being a desert. Against that terrain, it is the brightness of the colours that I’ve always associated with Rajasthan. One of my less-than-pleasant memories as a child was the way I could be a domestic tourist attraction. With my blond-blond hair and my white-white skin, I’d step out of a vehicle and immediately draw a crowd of onlookers—staring, just staring. The experience helped make me aware of the impact of skin colour and in India I’ve always loved the way the darker skins can wear the brighter colours.

I don’t tend to go shopping with Barby, but she knows I can be tempted to do so if it involves shops like Fabindia, filled with fabrics and designs in these bright colours—or, even a tiny shop in a local market, like this one near Ghanta Ghar (‘clock tower’) in Jodhpur.

As an aside, when we were in Kolkata we did visit a Fabindia shop, with one wall looking like this…

Water

As one who comes from Green and Pleasant Land 2.0 (New Zealand), it is easy to forget just how much the story of the Bible is set in Dry and Sandy Land 1.0. We can long for the sun a bit like they long for the rain. When the Bible speaks of ‘thirsting’, there is a parched desperation associated with it. It is partly why that imperative in Psalm 126.4—”restore our fortunes, like streams in the Negev” (NIV); “And now, God, do it again; bring rains to our drought-stricken lives” (The Message)—is saying more than we realise.

Jodhpur is one of the places on earth that could lay claim to being Dry and Sandy Land 2.0—and, as in many such places, we find step-wells. They are as the word suggests. Wide and deep wells lined with steps, like shopping mall escalators frozen in time. Look at the size of the people in this photo of Toorji Ka Jhalra Bavdi, just a few meters from Ghanta Ghar and a Health & Safety nightmare. Alleviating thirst, but adding fear. Yikes, it was scary…

It is easy to imagine the brief, but intense, rainy season covering some of those stairs, and being thankful for more water—but also for it being less far to fall, if you slipped!

By the way, we have a nephew (Jonathan Seefeldt) whose PhD, as I understand it, involved research into Rajasthan’s stepwells….

Food

Remarkably, I don’t have any pictures of Jodhpuri food being consumed by us. We did eat the samosa and drink the lassi near the Ghanta Ghar, which the locals were insistent on us consuming.

What we did enjoy was the way every restaurant seemed to be on a roof. This one, Blue Bird, proclaimed itself to be the highest roof in Jodhpur. There always seemed to be just one more flight of stairs to climb, until we ended up next to the water tank, squeezing a space for four out of one built for two—with an additional two year old, who I can reassure you was safe during the taking of this photo, even though he is not visible.

I’m glad I didn’t look down on the way up, but I did look up after I got down.

Museum

We did wander up to the fort and have a look around. The audio headset came with the entrance fee and so I gave it a try, a little reluctantly. I kinda like to do my own thing in places like this… There were 33 locations at which some commentary was offered and after Location 7, I seemed to lose track of where they all were and happily wandered off to check out the open spaces and the ramparts of the fort.

The fort is huge. One gate is built around a steep, severe corner in order to prevent elephants gaining any momentum with a run-up. Cool story, eh?!

After the ramparts I came back to the entrance to the museum with Barby suggesting—well, to be fair, imagine a stronger verb than that one—that Locations 8-33 were all in the museum. Ahh, so that must be why the guy at the entrance of the museum beckoned me to come in and also why the guy at the top of the steps during my solitary meandering chased me away exclaiming, “Wrong way”.

I was doing all I could do to avoid the museum … and there I was dragging my steps back to the entrance of the museum with the tedious prospect of Locations 8-33. But what followed was a choreographed journey up and down and around the inside of this fort, accompanied by the most articulate and informative audio tour guide. I repent in dust and ashes. If you are ever in the neighbourhood, or even the nation, you gotta do it. It is that impressive.

PS: Mithali Raj

Arguably, the finest women’s batter to grace the game of cricket was born in Jodhpur. Her wikipedia page makes for some remarkable reading. The One Day International (ODI) has been the mainstay of the women’s game and she is it’s highest run-scorer, by some considerable distance—and with an average over 50!

I’ve watched a movie on her life and career, available on Netflix, called Shabaash Mithu.

However, sadly, she was not in Jodhpur when we visited as far as I know.

nice chatting

Paul