“Oops!… I did it again.”
Yep — reading a book while pursuing every imaginable Wikipedia, Google Maps and YouTube distraction.
Why is the story so compelling?
It’s been called the ‘Stalingrad of the East’. ‘Britain’s Thermopylae’. More significantly, ‘in 2013, it was voted as Britain’s greatest battle after a debate at the National Army Museum in London, a surprise winner over the likes of D-Day and Waterloo’ (see here).
That is a big call! D-Day? Waterloo? No — Kohima!
We are surprised because ‘the great struggle at Kohima existed on the war’s periphery’ (281). D-Day was six weeks away and London was preoccupied. ‘As for the British public, the extreme peril of the Kohima garrison and the scale of the Japanese threat were unknown’ (283). As for the soldiers themselves, ‘in those first weeks of April 1944 they were unaware of the marginal consideration being given in London to the fighting. The men saw no further than the corpse-littered ground in front of them…’ (284).
1500 British and Indian troops took on 15,000 Japanese ones. It was thought that if Kohima fell, so would India. For 16 days they held their ground on the Kohima Ridge, in a battle that eventually centered around a tennis court behind the residence of the District Commissioner, Charles Pawsey. It was hand-to-hand, trench-‘n-bayonet warfare akin to World War One.
Kohima Ridge was about a mile long and roughly four hundred yards in width, a series of hills and gullies that ran alongside the road. With steep slopes along much of the road side of the perimeter, it presented a formidable obstacle for any attackers trying to scale their way up. But it was a narrow space from which to repel an enemy attacking in strength and the other side of the perimeter, away from the road, was overlooked by mountain slopes which offered enemy artillery any number of ideal firing positions (226).
The extended Kohima Ridge today, from a vantage point on the road to Dimapur. The key battles were back from that ridge just above the highpoint of the pine tree in the foreground (I think!). |
The Naga Hills are gorgeous, with this photo taken near Zubza — a key place in the story. |
The tennis court
The drama around the tennis court, writing as I am in the middle of the Wimbledon fortnight (!), is scarcely believable. About two hundred men ‘were dug in around Pawsey’s garden of rhododendrons and cannas’ (306) … facing the Japanese ‘in trenches across a patch of ground no more than twenty yards wide’ (306). The two sides ‘pitched grenades back and forth’ (xvii) — or shall we say ‘lobbed’, in the hope that artillery and bayonet-battles did not result in too many ‘passing shots’?
It is astonishing.
In one person’s description, ‘it was the nearest approach to a snowball fight that could be imagined’ (Glancey, 134). ‘At one stage a Japanese soldier was digging soil from a foxhole when the dirt landed in a British trench’ (383). It is estimated that 55,000 Japanese lives were lost in the battles around Kohima and Imphal, with 7000 dying around the the tennis court (Glancey, 135).
The site is now a War Cemetery. Here is my photo on a suitably moody, monsoon day.
The significance of the tennis court is seen on the cover page! |
Aren’t you beginning to feel the need for a map?! I sure am … but then I always am 😀.
One of the reasons why I became so engrossed in the story is because I’ve been on these roads (as well as the special people with whom I have driven on them). Imphal to Kohima is about 140kms, but it took us in excess of 6 hours to drive, thanks to the combination of landslides and potholes. [NB: I wrote a blog on that trip here]. Dimapur to Kohima is exactly half the distance (70kms), but taking less than half the time. Parts of the current border with Myanmar are visible on the map, to the right. The Japanese crossed the Chindwin River and made their way to Shangshak, Kharasom and Jessami — where some of the most heroic battles were fought.
Some of the key places in the Northeast (I should have added a touch of pink to Kharasom as well) |
Here is a map from the book, laid next to the same section from googlemaps today. The contours of the road have not changed, with the road on the left going on to Dimapur and the road on the right going on to Imphal (with our Langham training often happening just a few more kms down this road!).
1944 and 2022, side by side. [My brother, Mark, created a YouTube clip for me from Google Earth, showing these hills — see here]. |
The characters
Fergal Keane does such a great job with the characters in the story, introducing them as they emerge and then returning to them. Ursula Graham Bower, a formidable British woman who made her home in the Naga Hills (and also found her way onto the cover of TIME magazine on 01/01/1945) became ‘the first female guerilla commander in the history of British arms’ (53). As with Ursula, Charles Pawsey had this love and loyalty for the Naga people, with their welfare being ‘his life’s mission’ (34).
(Slim) would wait for Mutaguchi to come to him. In fact he would do something even riskier. Once the enemy offensive had begun, the divisions facing them on the Chindwin would be ordered to withdraw, conforming to the stereotype of previous Briitsh retreats. The Japanese would follow, their line of communication getting steadily longer and more exposed, until Slim stood and faced them on the Imphal Plain. There he had ample supplies of food, an advantage in armour and artillery and, most important of all, two all-weather airfields. Slim knew there were generals in Delhi who were petrified at the risk he was taking. Suppose the Japanese advanced too quickly and outflanked the retreating divisions? The staged retreat might easily become a chaotic rout (157).
Although this overall strategy was key to Slim’s success, it didn’t develop as he planned because the Japanese focus turned to Kohima, with an army far bigger than what was expected. This is why the Jessami-Kharasom-Shangshak battles were so critical. Taken on their own, they were battles lost by the British and for decades history recorded them as such, but they slowed down the Japanese. In the bigger picture they contributed decisively to the overall victory. [NB: William Slim went on to become Governor-General of Australia].
After victory in Kohima, General Slim’s forces drove the Japanese all the way back to Rangoon. The smile is totally inappropriate. It is this journey that gives the book its title: Road of Bones. |
The Nagas
[NB: There are other characters in the story which do not figure prominently in Keane’s narrative. Does he even mention any women? Well, the writings of Easterine Kire provide another perspective. In Mari (link here), she tells the story of her Auntie, living in a village near Kohima (which the Japanese occupied) during the horror — and the loves and lives which she lost along he way.]
The wider geopolitical swirlings are fascinating. There are the Mountbatten discussions with Churchill and Roosevelt. There is what is happening in China, with Chiang Kai-Shek. There is the turmoil in India, with Congress leaders in prison at the time — and Subhas Chandra Bose and his India National Army (INA) fighting with the Japanese in these battles, thinking that it was by standing with them that India’s freedom was most likely to be found.
And yet it would seem that the ones who gave so much are the ones who came out with so little. ‘The destabilising effect of war had left the Nagas tragically ill-prepared for the independence that was coming’ (410). The British abandoned them and, very soon, the Indians were to alienate them.
Problems and instabilities have continued right through the years (our two sets of parents, with almost 70 years in India between them, were never able to visit the Naga Hills) — and even earlier in this very year, there has been a major incident…
‘The Battle of Kohima was a heroic victory for the British, British Indians and Nagas at the time, yet it also pointed the way to a fragmentation of the subcontinent that has never been repaired.’ (Glancey, 129).
With his second-to-last paragraph (in a 444 page book!), Keane writes these words:
When Mountbatten promised that Britain would never forget her debt to the Nagas, he was not indulging in mere rhetoric. But the supreme commander was speaking in the bright glow of victory, when nobody could have imagined a civil war in the hills. It was an easy time to make promises. Once the war was over, Britain turned to the great project of national reconstruction, and the dismantling of the rest of her empire. Relations with India were governed by the principle of British interests first. Any attempt to interfere in the new nation’s handling of its domestic affairs would have been firmly rebuffed. At Kohima they had fought and won the last great battle of empire; but when it was all over, the victors found their strength sapped, their influence vastly diminished. The Nagas could plead forever, but the British had neither the power nor the political will to help them. Such is the story of empires and the small tribes caught in their fall (443).
The writing
Fergal Keane is such an elegant writer. Here are a sampling of some favourites:
‘Kohima was washed by the annual monsoon’ (35).
The terrain was ‘ribboned by rivers’ (75).
‘The British in Asia were widely caricatured as blimps and buffoons, selfish and self-satisfied, borne aloft on the suffering of millions of brown and yellow subjects’ (77).
‘A nation facing defeat always runs the risk of becoming captive to desperate adventures’ (115).
‘The eerie experience of travelling into clouds on the rollercoaster of the mountain roads’ (221).
‘The whisper to get ready ran like an electric current through the dozing men’ (236).
‘From now on, there would be no rest, only days and nights of screaming and death’ (253).
‘… it looked as if the sky was vomiting fire on them’ (286).
‘The war was a hell that followed him into peace’ (421).
‘Nothing is so far away as the home you might never see again’ (426).
“When you go home tell them of us and say for your tomorrow we gave our today.” |
About Me
the art of unpacking
After a childhood in India, a theological training in the USA and a pastoral ministry in Southland (New Zealand), I spent twenty years in theological education in New Zealand — first at Laidlaw College and then at Carey Baptist College, where I served as principal. In 2009 I began working with Langham Partnership and since 2013 I have been the Programme Director (Langham Preaching). Through it all I've cherished the experience of the 'gracious hand of God upon me' and I've relished the opportunity to 'unpack', or exegete, all that I encounter in my walk through life with Jesus.
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Wow. Bro Paul, you made me travel through the ups and downs of naga hills and ultimately landing at the war symmetry.
Dr Regon
So true about Ukraine, Ken — and so many places around the world where this kind of sadness lingers…
Enjoyed your photos from your trip. Brought back a few memories, as Barby and I made a similar visit almost 40 years ago!
best wishes
Yes, Dr Regon — we've enjoyed some of those roads and hills together.
Hope you are keeping well and I long for the day when we meet again.
ALSO — I was interested to learn about the Ledo Road in this book. It was new to me. Maybe one day you can take me there (if I am allowed to travel there!)
blessings
Paul
great stuff as ever – book ordered
Wonderful, Mark — I've never seen myself as rounding out your education, but with books on the early history of New Zealand and now on a 'forgotten war' in Northeast India … it seems to have become part of my purpose in life.